What to eat in Japan

Rich tonkotsu (pork bone), shoyu, miso or shio. At Ichiran you order solo in your own booth, perfect for picky kids.

Try: Ichiran, Afuri, Tokyo Ramen Street, Kinryu (Dotonbori)

Fresh, cheap and fun: order on a tablet and the plates zip to your seat. The big chains have English menus.

Try: Sushiro, Kura Sushi, Uobei (Shibuya)

Osaka's octopus balls, crispy outside and molten inside. Let them cool a bit; locals burn their mouths too.

Try: Wanaka, Kukuru, Aizuya (Osaka)

Savory cabbage pancake with pork or seafood, brushed with sweet sauce and mayo, grilled at your table.

Try: Mizuno and Chibo (Dotonbori), Takimi Koji (Umeda)

Deep-fried skewers of meat and vegetables. Dip once in the shared sauce: double-dipping is the one rule.

Try: Daruma (Shinsekai, Dotonbori)

Crumbed beef cutlet you sear on a hot stone, or the classic thick pork cutlet with shredded cabbage.

Try: Gyukatsu Motomura, Maisen (Omotesando)

Charcoal-grilled chicken skewers with salt (shio) or sweet sauce (tare). Best with a cold beer under the train tracks.

Try: Omoide Yokocho (Shinjuku), Yurakucho under the tracks

Convenience stores are a food group in Japan: egg sandwiches, onigiri, Famichiki fried chicken and hot oden. Breakfast for under ¥700.

Try: 7-Eleven, FamilyMart, Lawson

Matcha soft serve, parfaits and warabi mochi, best in Kyoto where the tea comes from nearby Uji.

Try: Higashiyama (Kyoto), Nishiki Market

The pasalubong. Banana-cream sponge cakes in a pretty box, plus KitKat flavors you can't find at home (matcha, sake, strawberry).

Try: Tokyo Station, the airports, Don Quijote